More is More (is More!)
By Hynam Kendall - VIP stylist/ fashion editor/ luxury brand consultant.
At the first DSquared2 show that I attended (as a reviewer for an international publication) an American airliner had crashed. Obliterated itself on impact.
Fear not, it was a prop masterminded by the fashion house and scattered about the space. Rows and rows of fashion editors all sat with their clutches and plimsolls tucked under themselves for fear of snagging against rogue mechanical parts and debris.
Amongst the forestry and overgrowth that swallowed the mossy stage, models stomped out in a haemorrhage of bright studio lighting, flaxen muscled and garlanded with beads, headpieces and accessories upon accessories.
Despite the undeniable and continued successes of demurer fashion houses and couturiers, whose DNA is about subtlety and just as much "what is not said" than what is said, if we look closely at what the customer wants today we can see very much that, in fact, the DSquared2 mantra is very often correct. More is more... is more.
Our DSquared's Favourites
Alessandro Michele's lauded debut at Gucci as Creative Director - after working a hard and loyal tenure in the design team prior - ushered in a new Gucci age: adornments on top of adornments (and then some more for good measure).
Pearls. And bows. And ruffles. In lame and silks and taffeta and lace.
Comedy glasses and mis-proportioned bombers a la Dapper Dan. Show seating replacing the usual resplendent white benches with wooden stalls and embroidered velvet cushions covered in snakes and flowers (which HEWI has managed to exclusively get its hands on Gucci embroidered cushion).
The label has never been so hot to wear.
Our Gucci's Favourites
And in the couture arena, Maison Margiela's appointment of John Galliano has seen season upon season build upon the theatre on which Galliano first made his name.
The recent Paris show in July was lauded by every outlet for being even higher than high concept.
Speaking to US Vogue, Galliano said he was celebrating those who wore everything "[becase they love to keep] their most precious possessions on them."
At the show, nomads pony-stepped in heels wrapped with iPhone holders that looked to the passing crowd like surveillance mirrors.
Bags the size of torsos were lugged by models whose hands were not only decked out in slouched leather gloves, but on top of that gold wraps of jewellery.
Multiple coats layered each other in a fantasy of padding and colour. And the result was glorious (Not a bad review in the house!)
Our GMaison Margiela's Favourites
Whilst many fashion lovers still site the approved, and oft over-used, advise tropes of pared-back elegance - "always take off the last thing you put on" - I say go for broke! Celebrate the last thing you put on, and add another to the mix!